Photography Melika Ngombe

The fashion world is all drama – you need look no further than the catty goings-on of industry grandees  Karl Lagerfeld and Yves Saint Laurent. In her gripping book “The Beautiful Fall” Alicia Drake describes the bitter rivalry between the two iconic designers, while dishing up a sneaky behind-the-scenes look at Paris fashion in the 70s. Drake, a seasoned fashion journalist, dives into the biographies of the two men and paints a vivid double portrait of their unwittingly intertwined lives. Intrigue, ambition and glamour in an enthralling mix, a fascinating read for both fashion insiders and outsiders.

Alicia Drake: The Beautiful Fall

Available from Amazon here

Photography Melika Ngombe

From Colette to Dior to Louis Vuitton, all high-end fashion houses count on Stockman mannequins to drape their creations-in-the-making. No wonder, then, that these famous French dummies are a must-have for the studio of any worthy fashion designer. In Brussels, La Cambre‘s army of the shapely mannequins have become part of the furniture. Around since 1867, the ageless Stockman mannequin has kept its position as the number one tailoring dummy for the ready-to-wear trade, keeping the same gestures it made in the 19th century. The company’s founder, Fredric Stockman, is the guy that we have to thank (we think) for today’s clothing sizes: he was the first to identify standardised shapes for our bodies. The company shapes their dummies to fit the prevailing local shape, so that Belgium’s Stockman dummy will be markedly different from Japan’s.

Photography Melika Ngombe

Premiere Vision is hands down the most important address for professional fashion designers on the hunt for fabrics. At this twice yearly fair in Paris, bump into everyone and anyone who’s anyone in fashion, fishing for the perfect material for the perfect next collection. With 700 weavers from 28 countries, the range of choice for the 50.000 or so visitors is eclectic, to say the least. Premiere Vision has swiftly established itself as the world’s number one fabric fair, an event that stays tuned to the demands of the industry and all the trends and tendencies of yearly fashion calendar, with impeccable timing. Whatever you are looking for, if you don’t find it here, you won’t find it anywhere.

From 14th to 16th February 2012

Premiere Vision, Parc d’Expositions Paris Nord Villepinte

www.premierevision.com

Photography Melika Ngombe

With the fashion week roll about to begin, fashion professionals the world around best start sprucing up on their fashion intelligence for the next few weeks will be one long test. Picture the following. You’re standing at the bar at the after-paerty, waiting to be served. Someone starts small-talking you, asking you how you found the collection. Next thing you know, you’re being quizzed on everything from the credit ratings of certain luxury powerhouses and the latest rumours surrounding the appointment of Dior Homme’s menswear designer to who the new face of Balenciaga might be. And, unless your blog reader’s full of the industry’s main chit-chat platforms (Bryan Boy, Tavi and the likes), Women’s Wear Daily‘s really your only ‘get out of jail for free’ card. The weekly bible of the fashion world, the newspaper, who has just celebrated its 100th anniversary, is the mother-of-all authorities on everything that is remotely linked to fashion. Truth is, whether you need to know what’s trending on the catwalks this season, who the new creative director of your favourite fashion imprint is or which upstart just got awarded the Mango Fashion Award? Getting a yearly subscription to WWD’s your only safe bet.

Women’s Wear Daily

Yearly print and online subscription $169.00

www.wwd.com

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How did the cooperation develop? What do you like about Delvaux?

It was Delvaux who approached us and we were very happy about it. We have a lot of respect for this brand and a lot of common denominators, ranging from their respect for material to the way they work and the number of pieces they produce. Everything is hand-made and well-controlled. Delvaux is a label that we already know for a long time, it’s something you grow up with, something our mothers already wore.

How did you choose what kind of piece you wanted to make? What inspired you?

It was important for us to create a link between silver and leather. We needed to translate that somehow. First we thought about making a piece out of leather, but that didn’t feel right. So we decided to transform leather into metal.

You used an antique procedure called the “wax casting method”, can you tell me more about that?

We wanted to use a method that would ensure not to lose any details. Church bells used to be made this way. It’s very rare to find someone who can still do something like that. We found this old man in this old house in Brussels who did an amazing job. It is a very long procedure involving many different steps, and each step poses the risk to lose some of the structure.

There’s also a bump in the bracelet imitating a woman’s wrist knuckle.

We added the bump ourselves by heating up the metal and working it with a hammer. The bump is a typical Wouters & Hendrix feature. We like to add humorous details, make it personal somehow. We don’t take ourselves too serious.

What kind of woman did you have in mind when you designed the bracelet?

It has nothing to do with age but more with an affinity for the piece. Our clients are usually people who don’t buy jewellery just to have it and because they can. For many the pieces are of sentimental value. Some come to us with pieces they bought 20 years ago asking to repair them. There’s always a story behind.

Why did you choose the title “embrace”, what does it signify?

We chose the name because of its double meaning: The bracelet embraces your arm and at the same time the two houses are embracing to work with each other.

Why is it a limited edition?

It’s very difficult and time-consuming to make, every piece is hand-crafted. And we wanted to keep it exclusive. With the moulding method that we talked about earlier you get a lot of unusable samples. Maybe 6 out of 12 pieces turn out the way we want. Not producing too many pieces protects their quality. We consider the bracelet more as an art piece.

How long does it take to make one piece?

For example it took two whole weeks until we got the first sample and after that we work on it about half a day in house.

It’s not exactly cheap – what is luxury for you?

It’s things you have but don’t really need. Something to spoil yourself and to make your life more comfortable.

You’ve been designing for 27 years now – how would you describe your style? What makes your jewellery stand out? What’s your signature touch?

We do classic jewellery with a twist. Also, we love old pieces with an emotional value produces with old techniques. Sometimes we reuse them in combination with contemporary pieces.

How did you two meet?

We studied together in Antwerp but were not really friends at the time. We really liked and respected each other’s work and have learned a lot from each other.

How did you get into jewellery-making and what is it that you like about it?

It is so beautiful because it is something you do with your hands and requires real craftsmanship. And it gives you a real kick when you use an old method and finally get it right. Or the feeling when you make your first ring…Jewellery-making is learning by doing and the passion grows in the process.

‘Embrace’ bracelet (€ 2.100)

Available from Delvaux, Boulevard de Waterloo 29 Waterloosesteenweg, 1000 Brussels

www.delvaux.be

Just when you thought the efficiency of the digital age would wipe out any form of time-consuming expression, illustration is enjoying a revival. Faced with increasingly perfect – and overtly retouched – images, some artists reacted by embracing the spontaneous and lively act of drawing. Pablo Piatti‘s illustrations are stylish, inviting and evocative. Whether he depicts fashion, still lifes or interiors, the Antwerp-based Argentinian has an innate sense of elegance, making his pictures timeless and beautiful.

Where were you born?

I was born in Buenos Aires and grew up there. I went to art school, but quit at the beginning of my fourth Year. I met a couple at that time who worked in Belgium. The guy was a polo player and talked me into moving there. I had wanted to get away from Argentina for a while and ended up living in Antwerp.

When did that happen?

That was in the 90s. I met Brian Redding – who launched Scapa back in the 60s – and he saw some of my drawings, which he really liked. Even though I didn’t really have the intention to work in fashion, he commissioned me to draw some images he wanted to showcase in his stores. That’s how it all began.

And how was that first experience in fashion?

It was a great learning curve. Brian’s daughter started a new line and asked me if I could design for her. I worked on seasonal collections and learnt how clothes were made, even though I didn’t have any prior knowledge in that field.

Did you keep on drawing while you were designing?

Yes, I did both at the same time.

Do you remember your very first drawings?

I was a kid, probably 5 or 6 years old. My father used to draw well and I think I learnt from him. I was never attracted by photography or film, but drawing felt instinctive for me.

I think illustration has more to do with dreams than reality. There’s something unfinished about it, which opens up your imagination.

What do you think illustration brings, which feels fresh and exciting now?

I think illustration has more to do with dreams than reality. There’s something unfinished about it, which opens up your imagination. It doesn’t try to copy reality. Illustration lets you exaggerate certain things or play with proportions. It allows you to create a whole universe around one object.

Is illustration still relevant in advertising?

It’s not so much a question of relevance, but taste. I think there’s a return to things that are handmade and imperfect. Craftsmanship has never been so important and valued, especially in the shaky context we live in.

Fashion illustration had its heyday in the late 80s and early 90s. Several illustrators -such as Mats Gustafson or François Berthoud- had their work published in magazines like Vogue or Marie-Claire. Do you think illustration offers an alternative to fashion photography?

I don’t think there is a substitute for fashion photography. I’d rather think of illustration as a way to complement or enrich images. Why not have the two working together? You can use collage or other techniques to create new effects.

Can you tell more about the accessories and animals series?

I started out with one drawing and it kept on growing. People seemed to like the series and I thought it’d be interesting to continue along the same lines. I’m currently working on jewellery drawings with birds.

What do your clients expect of you when it comes to illustration?

It depends on the people you’re dealing with. Some clients give you carte blanche and others are much more directive. They either ask for sharp and detailed drawings or let you do what you feel. I guess they’ll give you more room if they like your style.

Which projects are you currently working on?

A famous Antwerp architect asked me to illustrate a new book about his work, with drawings of his home. He wanted to mix photographs with more impressionistic images.

Is there something more poetic about illustrations then?

Yes, definitely. Illustration is more suggestive than photography.

Which elements inspire you in everyday life?

It can be anything, like plants or a landscape. I’m not focused on one particular type of object.

What about people? Do you like drawing them?

Not really. I guess they feel more anecdotal. I try to avoid faces and portraits, too. They don’t attract me at all.

Do you think drawing is more appropriate for certain compositions? I like the way you create different atmospheres in your illustrations.

Well, you certainly don’t have to ship exotic flowers to make your drawing happen. You don’t have to worry about the light either. It makes the logistical dimension easier, I guess. With drawing, it’s all in your head.

All photography Pauline Miko

Knitted cardigan from Henrik Vibskov and scarf by SPRB

As its name suggest, Danish designer Henrik Vibskov‘s Nordic Kimono – a heavy-knit oversized cardigan with tie belt – astutely blends Japanese cuts with Nordic patterns, bringing the best of both worlds together. A unique piece that scores house points both for its originality but also for the quality of its craftsmanship, the cardigan is made out of Merino wool and is cut to perfection (fitted but with enough room for manoeuvre should the Christmas dinner get out of hand). Topped by this exquisite hand-knitted scarf-come-hoodie made by Dutch imprint SPRB, and we’ve concocted the perfect solution for winter snuggles.

Thursday 23rd December’s proposal: Maison Fabre gloves and Il Bussetto coin purse

Taking colour-coded style to new heights, we’ve selected two items today guaranteed to bring smiles around the Christmas tree. First up, a family of leather-clad colourtastic gloves for women from venerable French glove-makerMaison Fabre. With a palette that tilts towards the bold and beautiful and a cut that aims for the timeless, the decade-old family business once again confirms its reputation for excellency. Next up is Italian imprint Il Bussetto‘s elegant coin purses, handcrafted using an ancient Italian manufacturing technique. Available in three different sizes and with a range of different colours to choose from, they’ll sit perfectly with the gloves.

Wednesday 21st December’s proposal: Good One sweater and Calourette necklace

As stylish as it is eco-conscious, this effortless, slightly-on-the-quirky-side sweater from London-based sustainable fashion imprint Good One stands out through its colour-patterned design, the label’s trademark look. Combining modern and contemporary features with an innovative production method (known as ‘up-cycling’, a trend that blends sustainable fabrics with reclaimed textiles), this unstructured pullover will appeal to the fashion-fiends keen to add a little lightheartedness to their wardrobes. Add to that the restrained sparkle of this necklace (made of real walnut and real silver) from Calourette – a French jewellery label with a knack for playful and original creations – and you have yourself another sure-fire duo of Christmas pleasers.

Tuesday 20th December’s proposal: Faguo & Johnstons of Elgin high tops and Alexander Wang hoodie

We’re suckers for collaborations here at Word HQ, especially when they bring seemingly opposing forces together. In steps French upstart sneaker label Faguo (The brand that pioneered the ‘buy-plant-support’ business model) and Johnstons of Elgin, a Scottish imprint that is over 200 years old (its tweed and cashmere are favourites of the British Royal Family). The unlikely pair have teamed up  on this Scottish-themed high top that combines Faguo’s modern and elegant design with Johnstons’ exceptional fabrics (the shoe is made of authentic Scottish tweed), bringing a little bit of Highland authenticity to the street. And, since we’re on the topic of street-savyness, we’ve picked out this Alexander Wang wool and cashmere hoodie as the best one to rock with the high tops – hands down.

Monday 19th December’s proposal: Asus N55S and Coffee Spot

In barista world, coffee enjoys the same kind of precision rating as wine. Indeed, the (somewhat belated) emergence of coffee joints in our cities has been accompanied by issues of bean quality, provenance and processing. What’s more, the image of the barista has evolved from one of spotty teenagers trying to make some pocket money to well-travelled, knowledgable coffee captains whose passion for the bean is second to none. Well, they now have a trusted little companion in the shape of this handy little coffee spot book. Designed by DeInvasie.be founder Yves Drieghe and printed in Belgium on an original Heidelberg press, think of the book as your very own little ratings agency on paper, a 100-page strong archive of all your coffee experiences. And, just in case the paper runs out or your pencil gives in, we suggest you take this sleek and sexy new notebook from Asus along. Called the N-Series, its built-in HD camera and Bang & Olufsen powered sound system (complete with subwoofer) makes it ripe for coffee lounge media consumption.

Friday 16th December’s proposal: Contacts DVD and 032c

Contacts is a comprehensive and exhaustive three-DVD boxset collection of movies (English, French and German audio) which profiles the world’s greatest photographers in a fresh and unashamedly personal way. Everyone from Sarah Moon, Jeff Wall or even Henri Cartier-Bresson takes to the camera, revealing secrets behind their iconic images and providing insights into their singular artistic approaches. A captivating behind-the-scenes look, the documentaries often make for exhilarating accounts and manage to picture these legendary photographers in their natural habitat: in the darkroom, on location or in the studio. And, to complete your Sunday afternoon culture fix, a yearly subscription to culture bible 032c (the self-proclaimed Manual for Freedom, Research and Creativity) will ensure you remain on top of your game as far as everything fashion, art and culture is concerned.

Thursday 15th December’s proposal: Santal Massoia perfume by Hermès and l’Eau de Villée limited edition bottle by Manor Grunwald

Since 2004 Jean-Claude Ellena, the mastermind behind all Hermès perfumes, creates elegant scents for the Hermessence line aimed at men as well as women. Santal Massoia is his tenth and most recent composition for the unisex collection, combining a rather unusual mix of two milky woods: the more common sandalwood and the rare massoia, a protected tree species found in New Guinea and Indonesia. Exotic yet discreet, the scent hits all the right notes this winter and is guaranteed to warrant an approving nod from the connoisseurs. And, keeping within today’s fire power tone, we’ve dug out a Manor Grunwald-designed limited edition Eau de Villée bottle that will without a doubt keep spirits high around the Christmas tree.

Wednesday 14th December’s proposal: Swatch Touch and Maison Martin Margiela gloves

Riding the current wave of everything ‘touch’, the Swiss watchmaker-to-the-masses reveals its Swatch Touch, a watch that, you’ve guessed it, comes with a touch screen. Trading in the customary twists and turns for swipes and taps, the Blade Runner-worthy timepiece comes in a timeless black (pictured), although the less serious souls will certainly go for Swatch‘s signature pallet of uplifting colours – everything form pink to turquoise. And, to guarantee you keep both your hands and your new watch nice and warm, these Maison Martin Margiela gloves will undoubtedly do the trick whilst staying true to your ‘presentation is half the battle won’ mantra.

Tuesday 13th December’s proposal: Sony Alpha 77 (with 18-55mm lens) and Louis Vuitton City Guides 2012

With its elegant disposition, this freshly-updated and tightly-packed collection of travel tomes consists of nine separate city guides that take in everything from a town’s museums and tearooms to it’s best shopping addresses and drinking dens. With the addition of a cutesy section entitled ‘Good Things’, the Louis Vuitton City Guides’ focus is clearly on the good life, dishing out innumerable insider tips as to what a city has to offer – from the 22 year old wine cellar in Zagreb to the 150 year old pastry shop in Warsaw. Choosing to give a shine to Europe’s lesser known capitals and satellite cities (Vienna and Salzburg; Naples and Bari; Odessa and St Petersburg), it is the depth of local insights and the simple way in which the intelligence is presented that really makes these city guides the perfect companion for your 2012 city-hopping plans. And, whilst you’re at it, take Sony‘s excellent Alpha 77 D-SLR with 18-55mm lens along in your weekend holdall to guarantee the tip’s many memories are captured to perfection, be it in photo or video mode.

Monday 12th December’s proposal: Marshall Headphones ’The Major’ and Slove ‘Le Danse’

With its synth-driven melodies, catchy guitar riffs and addictive bass lines, Slove’s debut LP ‘Le Danse’ is undoubtedly one of our favourite albums of the year, clocking up impressive amounts of airplay on Word radio. In fact, the band’s sexy-cool blend of uptempo and uplifting dance-pop so captured our hearts and minds that we invited the Parisian duo for a live showcase at our blue album release party (Watch the video here). Easily our number one music pick if we were to draw up our own wish list this Christmas. (And we’d probably throw in these sparkling white headphones by Marshall – ideal for bass-heavy listening.)

Photographer Ulrike Biets

(This feature was first published in the white album)

How did you get involved with Hedgren?

They approached me and presented the collection, asking if I would like to shoot the bag. They wanted something unusual for its press launch and I guess that’s the reason why they called me in the first place.

Do you think they picked you because you travel extensively for your job?

I think Tony Spackman had Djs, models and photographers in mind when he designed the collection, which makes sense actually.

How did you find the whole process of shooting the bag?

It was a bit stressful, because we didn’t have a lot of time. The bag was a sample and had to be couriered to Sydney. I had three different jobs to do and took the bag everywhere with me. I like the contrast between one of the first pictures -which was taken in the first class lounge of Qantas Airways, designed by Marc Newson- and one of the bag on the NMBS train.

Did you find the bag useful and functional?

Yes, I did. It was very interchangeable and you could use it in lots of different ways. That’s what makes it interesting. It took me a while to get used to it, because I have my own way of using a bag and placing things in it, but I realized it was a very good one to use on a photo shoot, because it totally opens up and everything is easily accessible. You can put all your things in it quickly, have your laptop available and use it while you’re shooting. It’s really functional. I was impressed.

Will this collaboration lead to other projects then?

I’d love to sit down with Tony and the Hedgren designers to actually create a bag with them. I guess I would like to imagine a style that’d be purely for photographers.

Is it the actual design process that would appeal to you?

I wouldn’t mind, to be honest. There are several things I need from a bag. It has to be safe, robust and light, but it also has to be able to fit in the overhead locker on an airplane.

People know you through your backstage images of shows in New York, Milan and Paris. What was it like shooting a bag, instead of cute models?

Well, I don’t just shoot people, you know. I photograph clouds, too. (laughter) I shoot rocks on the beach, whatever grabs my eye.

Photographer Veerle Frissen

(This feature was first published in the white album)

Wim Catrysse, Brussels

Courtesy of VidalCuglietta

Belgian artist Wim Catrysse’s new triple-screen video installations centre around Kawah Ijen, a volcano in Eastern Java. In September 2010 Catrysse spent 12 days in Indonesia to film the impressive natural spectacle, capturing a rather apocalyptic aura of the sulfur that emerges from the active crater. The chemical element has been associated with Satan’s realm as a symbol of hell, adding a rather sinister notion to the experience. Besides documenting nature in its full-blown wonderment, the artist also draws attention to the mining of sulfur, exposing the everyday business of exploiting the earth. Inspiring references to romanticists as Caspar David Friedrich, Cartrysse’s fascinating, awe-inspiring and somehow otherworldly works of nature motifs focus on the extreme and the outward-bound.

Until 23rd December

Galerie VidalCuglietta, Boulevard Barthélémy 5 Barthélémylaan, 1000 Brussels

www.vidalcuglietta.com

Fiction, Narrative & History, Brussels

Courtesy of D+T Project

Exploring themes of capitalism, corporate cultures and political speech, Fiction, Narrative & History touches upon some highly controversial issues of our times through the works of several different artists. With his video analysis of the Marxist and Communist legacies in today’s world, American artist Zachary Formwalt unravels its close-knit relationships to contemporary symbols and media imagery. Swedish artist duo Goldin&Senneby host a conference surrounding the movie Headless at Regus which delves into the artists’ research into offshore financing and the activities of an imaginary company called Headless. And finally, Dutch video and performance artist Nicoline van Harskamp uses footage of conversations, speeches or autobiographies to reveal the power of the spoken word. High-minded and high- browed stuff not for the faint-hearted.

Until 23rd December

D+T Project, Rue Bosquetstraat 4, 1060 Brussels

www.dt-project.com

Wunderkammer, Brussels

The history of the curiosity cabinet (Wunderkammer in German) dates back as far as the 16th century, when pharmacists and high-society people started collecting rare or curious objects without wanting to be encyclopaedic but trying to reveal the innermost secrets of reality and nature itself. Paradoxically, the pieces on display in the Botanique’s show focus essentially on pure creations made by contemporary Belgian or Belgium-based artists, including Jan Fabre, Michel Mouffe, Charley Case or Jean-Luc Moerman. Tattooed skulls, stuffed and stretched animals – step into a bizarre world of wonders.

From 8th December to 29th January 2012

Botanique, Rue Royale 236 Koningsstraat, 1210 Brussels

www.botanique.be

Is Tropical DJ Set, Brussels

After  having just recently set the Botanique on fire with their catchy electro rock, the London three-piece now comes back to Brussels to show their skills as DJs at the Wood’s monthly Indie Club. The newest Kitsuné output stirred quite some attention this year, not only with its radio hit ‘The Greeks’ that won them a prize at the UK music video awards, but also for covering their faces with scarfs and masks at all times (we interviewed the up-and-comers just a few weeks ago). Besides a mix of Is Tropical’s favourite tunes, Wood’s residents will keep you on your feet with the freshest indie music and timeless rock anthems (think The Clash, Blur or The Drums). Get ready for a hot sweaty night and some real rock’n'roll.

Watch the award-winning video ‘The Greeks’:

16th December

Wood, Chemin de la Meute 1 Jachtkoppelweg, 1000 Brussels

www.istropical.com

Black Lips, Brussels

Fireworks, vomiting, nudity, urinating, enflamed instruments, a chicken: The stage antics of the Atlanta four-piece can be quite a hardcore experience – nothing for the faint-hearted. The band with a penchant for provocation, evident in their latest video, just brought out their 6th studio album on Vice records this year: ‘Arabia Mountain’. Despite having Mark Ronson as a producer, Black Lips manage to keep their bad boy attitude intact. Guaranteed to be a memorable night.

Watch the newest single ‘Family Tree’:

17th December

VK, Rue de l’Ecole 76 Schoolstraat, 1000 Brussels

www.vkconcerts.be

Beyond Style, Antwerp

Courtesy Gallery 51

With its panoramic view on ‘style’, the exhibition at Gallery 51 does justice to the elusiveness and subjective nature of the term that means much more than just fashion. Focusing on the charismatic presence of the photographed subject ‘Beyond Style’ finds a common denominator in images that at first glance can seem rather opposed to the viewer. Anonymous African photos are presented next to international icons such as Brigitte Bardot or Paul Newman. The displayed works range from influential fashion images by William Klein or Frank Horvat and portraits by Irving Penn or Jaques-Henri Lartigue to Diane Arbus’ gripping photographs of eccentrics.

Opening 8th December, 18h00

Gallery 51, Zirkstraat 20, 2000 Antwerp

www.gallery51.com

Manor Grunewald, Ghent

Courtesy of Fortlaan 17

Manor Grunewald, the young Belgian painter that made it on the cover of our white album, is currently exhibiting at the Fortlaan 17 Gallery in Ghent. With the exhibition ‘I always wanted to be David Copperfield, but I turned out to be a painter’, the self-taught painter attempts to find a link between the magical and the arts, constantly bending reality and generating illusions. Nevertheless Grunewald’s works are always more defined by his paths towards the canvas rather than artistic techniques, always starting out from the observation of people and cultures and how reality is commonly perceived.

Until 28th January 2012

Galerie Fortlaan 17, Fortlaan 17, 9000 Ghent

www.fortlaan17.com

Charles Burns, Leuven

Courtesy of M Museum Leuven

Leuven’s M Museum presents more than 200 works from the past thirty years by American graphic novelist and illustrator Charles Burns, best known for his comic books referencing pop art and culture whose atmosphere ranges from kitschy nostalgia and cheap sensation to haunting horror and dark worlds. His stories touch themes as adolescence and sexual awakening and are combined with recurring images of mutation, plague, alienation and violence. What many people don’t know: Burns also designed album covers for Iggy Pop, illustrated advertising campaigns for Altoids or Ok Soda and even did covers for Time, The New Yorker and The New York Times Magazine.

From 8th December to 11th March 2012

M Museum Leuven, Leopold Vanderkelenstraat 28, 3000 Leuven

www.mleuven.be

Last minute christmas sales to catch:

Brussels: Dress is more pop up sale

From 16th to 18th December

Centre Bruxellois de la Mode et du Design, Nouveau Marché aux Grains 10 Nieuwe Graanmarkt, 1000 Brussels

www.dressismore.com

Antwerp: I/OBJECT christmas pop up store

Until 18th December

Closet, Volkstraat 9, 2000 Antwerp

www.iobjectstore.com

Ghent: I/OBJECT christmas pop up store

Until 18th December

A&Gallery, Schepenhuisstraat 17, 9000 Gent

www.iobjectstore.com

Photographer Veerle Frissen

(This feature was first published in the white album)

Photographer Veerle Frissen

(This feature was first published in the white album)

Photographer Veerle Frissen

A family-owned business for over 100 years now, poulterers Diegenant is a husband-and-wife affair, with Mr Diegenant in charge of prepping the meat whilst Mrs Diegenant attends to the shop. The couple, both in their 60s, wear white for hygiene and because the colour is easily recognisable to their customers.

(This feature was first published in the white album)

Photographer Pauline Miko

rueblanche.be

(This feature was first published in the white album)

Chauncey needs no introduction to these pages, their cashmere and knitwear collections having won our hearts and minds over a long time ago. And the hits just keep on coming from the Brussels-based French couple, this time in the shape of its long-sleeved cables knitted jumper full of details. There’s the chunky twisted knitted patterns that lace the entire jumper, the body-perfect straight fit as well as the small V neck detail at the centre of the ribbed collar (on the men’s version only). Made in Mongolia, home to the finest cashmere in the world, don’t be surprised if this revisited classic becomes a regular on your winter clothes rack.

Chauncey white crew neck (329 €)

Available from chaunceystore.com

(this article was first published in the white album)

Writer Philippe Pourhashemi, Photographer Lorenzo

In a noisy world governed by pressure and speed, Damir Doma’s clothes offer a welcome respite from the highly cyclical fashion world. His garments whisper -rather than shout- inviting us to take a step back and reflect upon fashion. The Croatian-born, Paris-based designer, showed his first collection in June 2007, gaining serious interest from key retailers and influential press. With a focus on draping, soft shapes and generous volumes, he pushed menswear into a new territory, moving away from Hedi Slimane’s razor-sharp silhouette at Dior Homme towards something more abstract and less angular. He also put an emphasis on craft, giving his pieces a tactile and intricate dimension. He’s part of a generation that rejects sensationalism and style fads, looking for long-term commitments instead of short-term gains. In Doma’s work as a designer, there is no space for vulgarity. He may only be 30, Doma already has quite a large business to run, including menswear and womenswear collections – shown in Paris twice a year – shoes, bags, accessories, and a diffusion line called “Silent”. Working on several projects simultaneously, the designer seems particularly excited at the prospect of opening his own store on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris, a few steps from the Comme des Garçons boutique. He plans to unveil the new space during menswear fashion week next January.

Despite an amazing career path – which would make many of his peers green with envy – Damir Doma does not cultivate his ego as much as other designers do. He comes across as an articulate and fairly introspective man, aiming at something more meaningful than the next fashion high. He is deeply analytical and critical, but you can feel his vulnerable side, too. He happens to have a special relationship with Belgium, where he got to learn about his own boundaries, role and identity “I lived in Antwerp for a while, working with Raf Simons and Dirk Schönberger. It was a bit of a soul-searching time for me,” he explains. “I didn’t know anything about the city when I arrived. I didn’t know anyone either and was still in my early 20s. I found myself on my own for the first time and was wondering who I was and what I really wanted from life. I guess it was an exi tential thing. Even though I felt lonely at times, it encouraged me to find some answers. This process helped me create my own foundation in terms of design and direction.” There’s a sense that Doma wants to protect himself, hiding his sensitivity under cosy layers. His clothes are like an embrace from an old friend, giving you comfort, warmth and happiness.

I chose white, because it felt like a new beginning. It was like holding a blank piece of paper in my hand, something very pure and untouched

During his last womenswear show back in September, Doma decided to open with a series of stunning white outfits, giving a clean and fresh start to his collection: “I chose white, because it felt like a new beginning. It was like holding a blank piece of paper in my hand, something very pure and untouched. White stands for spirituality, which is important in my work. I wanted to bring much more sensuality and femininity into the collection. People often acknowledge me as a menswear designer, but I feel the message within my womenswear shows has become clearer and sharper each year. I’ve had to learn the design language to express what I wanted to say.” There’s an organic feel to his clothes, which refer to natural elements in a subtle way. Shades of stone, plaster, marble and sand can be found in his shows, as well as occasional dashes of strong colour. In many ways, Damir Doma’s aesthetic refers to the early 80s and the infamous Japanese wave, when designers like Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo changed the face of Western fashion. Doma’s forte is finding the right balance between all these elements and keeping in mind the needs of his clients “As a designer, I have to keep on pushing myself while remaining true to my essence. Another thing I realised working with Belgian designers is that you always have to place clothes within a much broader context. It’s totally different from – let’s say – the way Italian designers work. Italian fashion is much more about creating a certain look than addressing the reasons why it should exist. I think the Belgians gave depth and meaning to the fashion world, which was surely lacking when their careers took off. Still, one should never forget that fashion is not art. It’s just that the creative process getting you to a collection can be quite similar to what is experienced by an artist when he or she tries to come up with a new piece.”

Needless to say, fashion stardom comes with its fair amount of strain. And, even though Doma is clearly not the excessive type prone to give in to life’s every indulgence, he still has to deal with the pace of the industry and the stress it creates, “People always emphasise the shows, but the most important thing for me is how you get there. That’s the fascinating part. There’s more and more to be done at the company each year. I get more help now, but I also have to be able to delegate, which is not as simple as people imagine it to be. I guess it’s a challenge right now. I still draw everything myself and am not at that point where I feel I don’t need to have that level of control. It’s different with menswear, because I’m getting more and more to this point. With the womenswear line, I’m not there yet.” There’s something touching about Doma’s humility and his willingness to be sincere, not pretending to be something he clearly isn’t. You get to sense the person behind the brand, echoing the way his models look on the catwalk, appearing more like individuals than soulless clothes hangers. Despite growing up as a kid amongst patterns and samples within his mother’s atelier – and being backed by Paper Rain, a powerful and international fashion group – he wants to take the time to evolve, leaving enough room for experimentation and research “I turned 30 this year and didn’t feel any difference. I guess each one of us has milestones in life. There’s always this idea that certain things have to be done by a certain age. I don’t know if this applies to how I live my life. I guess my work is not just about creating collections, but also finding a language that can be understood globally. I’m aware that finding this is challenging and goes quite deep, but I’m very excited about it. I feel so grateful I even get the chance to do it. Not many people do.”

For me, fashion is always a very direct reflection of the times we’re going through

Every designer has to make tough decisions, from the complete beginner to the confirmed talent, which is something Damir Doma is more than aware of. “When we started with the menswear, we used to have our production in Belgium, but ended up switching to Italian manufacturers. Belgian companies were very strong when it came to producing women’s clothes, but finding strong partners for menswear was much more complicated. There were also issues with pricing and quality. We got a better package in Italy. The whole production was moved there eventually, apart from Silent, which is mainly made in Portugal.” Besides some unavoidable commercial demands, it’s obvious that Damir Doma loves his work. In fact, he takes fashion more seriously than most of us do: “For me, fashion is always a very direct reflection of the times we’re going through. That’s why people should never underestimate it. It’s a confus- ing period in general, not just in fashion.” He seems to find satisfaction in dealing with several tasks at the same time, rejecting the notion that a single focus is necessarily more efficient “People always seem to worry that working on different things simultaneously decreases your creativity, but this is not something I agree with. I tend to be the opposite as I’m quite comfortable going from one project to another. If you’re a designer working on just one collection, you get this huge sense of loss after your show and there’s nothing else to hang on to. Coming back after that tends to be much harder. This is a very good moment for me. You just need to take a few days off when your body tells you to.”

damirdoma.com

(this feature was first published in the white album)

Normann Copenhagen Pop up Store, Brussels

With the end-of-year, Christmas shopping spree about to begin, Brussels-based design hotstop La Fabrika dedicates an entire space to the playful, innovative and often surprising world of Danish design imprint Normann Copenhagen. Open until the end of the month, the pop up shop features the Scandinavian designers’s entire collection, unique for its ability to challenge conventional design rules and use traditional materials whilst retaining a certain unpretentiousness.

From 1st to 31st December

La Fabrika, Rue A. Dansaertstraat 182, 1000 Brussels

www.lafabrika.be

Robert Devriendt, Brussels

Robert Devriendt’s miniature oil paintings tell intimate stories by showing fragments of people, animals, landscapes or spaces which greatly resemble film stills. With his special attention to detail and precise, realistic painting technique harking back to the Flemish Primitives, he creates an intriguing world full of sensuality. A fetishist, a young girl, a blood stained dog, a taxidermist – these and other figures make regular appearances in his at times obscure and gloomy series of work, set in a natural decor with Devriendt slipping into the role of a hermit living an insular life in the woods. Fittingly, the exhibition The woods of love and horror, which bears resemblance to an unfinished film, is inspired by murder mysteries and crime thrillers.

Until 23rd December

Galerie Baronian Francey, Rue Isidore Verheydenstraat 2, 1050 Brussels 

www.baronianfrancey.com

Depth of Field, Antwerp

Playing around and mastering the depth of field is probably rule number one of the dummy’s guide to photography. Indeed, the distance between the nearest and farthest subject or object in your composition – that magical effect that is achieved through adjustments to your optical lens – often is the best way for a photographer to balance the relevant with the superfluous, then and there deciding what, to him, should be in focus, and what deserves to be relegated to the background. Drawing upon the creme of the crop of current Belgian photographic talent (everyone from Bert Danckaert, Lara Gasparotto, Francois Goffin, Jimmy Kets, Charlotte Lybeer and Arno Roncada), the exhibition showcases the myriad of possibilities when experimenting with depth of field emphasising the dialectical connection between the sharp and the blurry whilst reviving the notion of the photographer as a painter-photographer.

Until 24th December

Stieglitz 19, Klapdorp 2, 2000 Antwerp

www.stieglitz19.be

Serge Strosberg, Antwerp

Antwerp-born, New York-based artist Serge Strosberg’s works draws upon the city’s energy and very much evolves around the fashion world – a world he is no stranger to following previous collaborations with art directors for Elle and Vogue. Combining German expressionism with American realism, the self-proclaimed Expressionist of fashion captures models by revealing the less glamourous side of the beauty business. His vivid depictions – portraits that owe as much to photography as they do to painting – touch upon themes of materialism, narcissism, voyeurism and uniformity, making Strosberg’s unique vision particularly relevant in today’s fashion-frenzied society.

From 2nd to 23rd December

Galerie Ludwig Trossaert, Museumstraat 29, Antwerp

www.strosbergserge.com

Pop/Zuid Pop up Store, Antwerp

From books, accessories and cosmetics to clothes and shoes, this temporary designer outlet offers everything the avid shopper can wish for. An eclectic selection of all the right brands offers a varied choice guaranteed to lay any fashion fiend’s end of year frustrations to rest.  With collections by Jil Sander’s and more playful pieces from Paul & Joe sister or Chloe’s See line, the pop up outlet store remains open until the end of January and remains your best shot yet at making an impression on a shoestring.

Until 31st January

Pop/Zuid, Scheldestraat 72, 2000 Antwerp

Thursday to Saturday and Monday, 11h00 – 18h00

Andy Butler and Jeremy Glenn, Ghent

Having done more than anyone in bringing some disco cool back to the dance floor with his Hercules & Love Affair crew (check out their newest album ‘Blue Songs’ released on Moshi Moshi earlier this year), New York DJ Andy Butler has since become the unofficial spokesman for a generation of nostalgic club music lovers. Playing a DJ set and supported by Toronto-based Jeremy Glenn (We Play House), expect a night of suggestive danse moves and sexy-hot dance grooves.

2nd December

Vooruit, Sint-Pietersnieuwstraat 23, 9000 Ghent

www.vooruit.be

Lineart Art Fair, Ghent

Often living in Art Brussels’ shadow, Lineart has nonetheless carved out a niche for itself as the art fair for the studious. Concentrating on contemporary art, modern and ethnic paintings can be found next to design items and sculptures. Celebrating its 30th birthday, this year’s edition comes with a special focus on Japan, as well as a newly established photography section, Photo Art Zone. Also not to miss: Belgium Calling, a section showcasing Belgian artists as well as The Border which gives young and upcoming artists the chance to shine.

From 2nd to 6th December

Flanders Expo, Adolphe Pégoudlaan, 9051 Ghent

www.lineart.be

Jasper Johns, Oudenbourg

Located in the Belgian countryside, far removed from the hustle and bustle of the city-slicking art scene, the De 11 Lijnen is a special place that puts on special exhibitions, a fact confirmed with its latest exhibition which shows works from world-famous contemporary artist Jasper Johns. World-renowned for his famous painting of the US American flag, Johns paved the way for pop artists such as Andy Warhol through his technique of capturing everyday, ordinary objects onto the canvas. One aspect of Johns’ career that often went unnoticed was his use of hand prints as artistic medium, first accidentally in studies for a sculpture, later as a focal point in many important pieces of his oeuvre. This exhibition now presents Johns’ works from a different angle, focusing on these hand prints that sometimes remind the viewer of prehistoric cave paintings and undoubtedly add to the mystery around his pieces.

Until 11th February 2012

Foundation De 1 Lijnen, Oudenbourg

www.de11lijnen.com

Art & culture

John Isaacs: The closest I ever came to you

Photography courtesy of Aeroplastics

The UK-born artist is somewhat of a modern-day moralist: His works, mainly installations, expose the discrepancy of the way the world is and the way we would like it to be. Playing with extremities and taboos John Isaacs uses his pieces as guilty messengers that show the decline of today’s Western society and deal with our role as individuals within society. Despite his gloomy vision of the world, his work carries a spark of hope trying to create a new consensus by challenging the spectators to rethink their perspectives. Heavy stuff.

From 18th November to 21st January 2012

AEROPLASTICS contemporary, Rue Blanchestraat 32 , 1060 Brussels

www.aeroplastics.net

Donald Judd

Photography courtesy of Galerie Greta Meert

From his earlier works to his later creations, the exhibition at Greta Meert gallery gives a comprehensive overview of one of the most renowned exponents of Minimal Art – a label that the American artist himself always fiercely rejected. With his radical and innovative approach to furniture design focusing on functionality combined with a pure and simple but elegant look, Donald Judd’s creations were at the time of making of ground-breaking character. Today his pieces have lost nothing of their appeal – built with sober but solid materials, technical precision and an elegant simplicity, Judd’s furniture is timeless and here to stay.

From 19th November to 10th March 2012

Galerie Greta Meert, Rue Du Canal 13 Vaartstraat, 1000 Brussels

www.galeriegretameert.com

Shoot for Good

Photography Sébastien Calvez

With a dual purpose to its existence (to give emerging artists some shine as well as raise funds to support the accessibility of art for low income communities), Shoot for Good‘s Contrasts exhibition displays limited-edition works by photographers from across the world. Sitting alongside the works of 13 amateur photographers are the donated prints of over 17 seasoned professionals who’ve handed their image rights over to the organisation. All profits from the event are reinvested into projects that promote social reintegration through the arts, providing you with the perfect opportunity to indulge in your photographic fetish whilst also doing a little bit of good by, hopefully, reaching out for your wallet.

From 17th to 20th November

Tour & Taxis, Avenue du Port 86c Havenlaan, 1000 Brussels

www.shootforgood.be

Shopping

Indoor DesignMarkt

With its vast selection including affordable interior pieces as well as items exclusively aimed at collectors, this enormous vintage market offers everything a vintage fan could wish for. What’s more, the Ghent DesignMarkt is more than just a sale, extending into the realms of fair-territory. Indeed, visitors will be able to get their picture taken together with their purchased wares by top photographer Andy De Decker, consult young interior designers for free or watch four Belgian architects build a vintage living room right before their eyes.

From 19th to 20th November

ICC Ghent, Citadel Parc 1, 9000 Ghent

www.designmarkt.be

Modo Sales

Organised by Modo Brussels, this gigantic two-day stocksale offers an excellent chance to get your hands on Belgian designer pieces at a reasonable price. More than thirty creators open up their wardrobes for the weekend, with everything from Carine Gilson’s exquisite lingerie to the elegant clothing of award-winning label Sandrina Fasoli vying for your attention. The yearly rendez-vous of the local fashion scene and the best way to add a little Belgian flavour to your clothes rack.

From 18th to 19th November

Center of Fashion & Design, Nouveau Marché-aux-grains 10 Nieuwe Graanmarkt, 1000 Brussels

www.modobrussels.be

Music

Indie: Foster The People

Having conquered the radio waves this summer with its catchy hit ‘Pumped Up Kicks’, the dance-infused indie pop three-piece from Los Angeles now comes to Brussels on the back of their acclaimed debut album ‘Torches’ (think MGMT’s ‘Oracular Spectacular’). The Californians are another perfect example for internet-initiated music stardom: The viral success of ‘Pumped Up Kicks’ got them an online ad campaign, a record label and, finally, appearances at big festivals as Coachella and SXSW where they cemented their reputation for energetic live performances.

19th November

Botanique, Rue Royale 236 Koningsstraat, 1210 Brussels

www.botanique.be

House/disco: Maceo Plex

After having travelled the world and played in some of the best clubs around the globe Maceo Plex, better known under his former artist name Maetrik, now comes to Brussels to present his new tracks (the album ‘Life Index’ was released this year on Crosstown) at the Libertine Supersport night hosted in K-nal. With his versatile mixture of dark and deep house and Nu Disco, Maceo Plex‘s smooth and sexy sound is guaranteed to keep you on your toes ’til the early hours of the morning.

19th November

K-nal, Avenue du Port 1 Havelaan, 1000 Brussels

www.libertinesupersport.be

Hip hop: IconAclass

IconAclass is the most recent solo project from MC and producer Will Brooks, best known for his alternative hip hop releases as MC Dälek. With his new album ‘For the ones’, he digs deep in his soul and offers a stripped down, boom bap old school hip hop album with the lyrics at the forefront and touching on topics from religion to race relations and criticism of capitalism. A must for backpacking hip hop heads with a penchant for dark productions.

20th November

Trix, Noordersingel 28-30, 2140 Antwerp

www.trixonline.be

Funk/Soul: Tropical #17

Every third Saturday of the month Madame Moustache invites you to its so-called Tropical parties dedicated to latin, afro and caribbean rhythms from the 60s to today. This weekend resident DJ Funky Bompa is joined by DJ Quilombo, active in the Brussels Up collective and something of a tropical bass supremo.

19th November

Madame Moustache, Quai au Bois à Brûler 5-7 Brandhoutkaai, 1000 Brussels

www.madamemoustache.be

Photography courtesy of Zhao Li

Did you study at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp?

Yes, I did. I graduated with a BA in Jewellery Design and Metalworking in 2009 and got my MA in July last year.

Why did you choose Antwerp to study?

The school has a very good reputation and, of course, I knew about the Antwerp Six. I started doing fashion in the 1st year to realize I was more into the finer details and craftsmanship. I also wanted to do more research on materials and my teacher suggested I do jewellery instead. I started the course in 2006.

Did you have any other options apart from Antwerp?

I would have loved to study in Paris. For me, Chanel and Dior are references, especially when it comes to Haute Couture. It’d be fascinating to work there and gain some professional experience within a larger company.

I love adding a conceptual layer to jewellery making, it’s something that truly drives me.

Why is jewellery so important for you and what does it bring you creatively?

One thing I learnt from the Academy was to focus on the concept and research behind a product. I love adding a conceptual layer to jewellery making, it’s something that truly drives me. I love learning about new techniques as well.

What materials do you like to use in your collections?

The main material I use at the moment is this medical plastic I get through a Belgian healthcare company called Orfit. They basically give me the material for free and I get involved in workshops with schools. I could do anything I wanted with the plastic and remember showing my first pieces to the factory’s owner and his daughter. They both loved it and ended up sponsoring me for my final year project. I’m still using their plastic now.

When did you launch “talitali by Zhao Li”?

I launched the line a year ago and am happy with the way it’s evolving.

Being creative is one thing, but turning it into a business is another.

What are the challenges you face as a young designer?

It takes time for people to notice your work and understand what you are about. You cannot just rely on your own brand and have to work on several projects at once. I work with Heaven Tanudiredja in Antwerp and enjoy our collaboration. When you come out of school, you don’t know anything about the business and have to learn from scratch. Being creative is one thing, but turning it into a business is another.

Where does your passion for animals come from?

It’s funny, because I always get very strong reactions from people, particularly when it comes to insects. Some of them do not seem to be that popular… You would not believe how many adults are terrified of spiders for instance, even when they’re made out of plastic! While I was experimenting with materials, I noticed how beautifully the plastic merged with textiles. I needed something to create a strong contrast between the shapes and materials used. Animals came to mind very naturally, I cannot say it’s something I planned in advance.

Did you like the paradox between the sweet feel of your pieces and the way insects can be perceived?

Yes, definitely. I wanted to work on that contradiction throughout the collection. My aim was not to scare anyone, you know, but it’s nice to see people react to what I do.

Which textiles work best when combined with plastic?

I love using lace. It’s easy to work with and striking at the same time.  I have to melt the plastic first and press the lace on top of it. As lace has many holes, you get this bubble effect on my jewellery, which I really like.

For me, luxury has more to do with creativity, innovation and emotion.

What is luxury for you?

For me, luxury is not about using expensive materials only. In jewellery, many designers are obsessed with diamonds, gold or expensive stones, but luxury can be precious for different reasons. It has more to do with creativity, innovation and emotion. I guess luxury is a very relative notion.

What do you think of artists experimenting with jewellery at the moment?

It’s great. I have exhibited my work in several galleries already and like working with contemporary jewellery pieces. The idea of limited, artistic jewellery appeals to me as well.

Do you think jewellery can be envisaged as an art form?

Yes, I do. There’s this big trend at the moment with contemporary jewellery artists, which I find very interesting. I love the way jewellery has become much more interdisciplinary, dealing with several creative fields at once.

What are the advantages of working and living in Belgium?

Belgium has a great location within Europe. You can easily go to Paris, London or Amsterdam. It’s a very creative country, too, especially when it comes to the fashion world. A lot of things happen here. The best thing is quality of life and the fact that things are still affordable, compared to other major cities. I like the peaceful atmosphere, too.

Do you find people support each other in the business?

Yes, they do. You get to meet a lot of designers here and exchanging ideas with them is not difficult. The Flanders Fashion Institute really helped me, too, and I’m grateful for it. To be honest, I have no intention to move elsewhere. I love it here.

Instameet

When lens manufacturer Schneider begins manufacturing lenses for iPhones and the widely popular photo app Instagram hits the ten million users mark, you know the game has forever been changed. No surprise then that A&Gallery and Instameet, an initiative bringing together the global phoneography community, felt it timely to put on what is, essentially, Belgium first major phoneography exhibition, showcasing 100 selected photographs snapped up with mobile phones. Get used to these, they’re the future.

From 10th to 12th November

A&Gallery, Schepenhuisstraat 17 – 9000 Ghent

www.instameet.be

Olivier Cornil: La quadrature du vide

Photography Olivier Cornil

To celebrate the 60 year anniversary of Brussels’ North-South connection – the city’s so-called Jonction – the neighbourhood’s artistic institutions Recyclart and Congrès join forces to present artists exploring the present and the future of this urban renewal scheme. Top of our list: Photographer Olivier Cornil who’s just completed his first month of residency at Recyclart, Peter Downsbrough showcasing a site-specific installation of his at Congres as well as a historical exhibition tracing the North-South’s axis evolution. The perfect opportunity to spruce up your historical knowledge of Brussels in a very visual manner.

Recyclart, Rue des Ursulines 25 Ursulinenstraat – 1000 Brussels

www.jonction.be

Michel Mazzoni: Straight in the light

Abandoned spaces, lost places and the powerful and immaterial beauty of light – these are the themes French-born photographer Michel Mazzoni explores in his works for the exhibition “Straight in the light” studying the mystical vastness of North American landscapes. Think Stephen Shore and Alec Soth.

From 11th November to 11th December

Centre Culturel Jaques Franck, Chaussee de Waterloo 94 Waterloosesteenweg – 1060 Brussels

www.lejacquesfranck.be

Pink screens

Five different artists from New York to Paris explore gender and sexual diversity in different ways. Machado De Souza Jaqueline for instance focuses on motel rooms as a microcosmos of sexuality, whilst visual artist Carter presents a film installation in which Hollywood star James Franco (127 Hours, Howl) acts out excerpts from different films in an attempt to question identities. The show is part of the Pink Screens film festival’s 10th edition hosted by Cinema Arenberg, Cinema Nova and Genres d’à Coté.

From 10th to 19th November

Cinema Nova, Rue d’Arenberg 3 Arenbergstraat – 1000 Brussels

www.pinkscreens.org

The fashion show to catch: Customisez-moi

In its fifth edition this year, talent contest Customisez-moi created by vintage guru Bernard Gavilan and open to all fashion obsessives – from autodidacts through to fashion students – hosts its final catwalk show this Friday, putting forward the customised creations of the selected finalists. The winner will be given some space to shine through Modo Brussels as well as the RA store in Antwerp.

11th November, 20h00

Studio Indigo, Avenue Van Volxem 388 Van Volxemlaan – 1190 Brussels

www.customisezmoi.com

Paul Smith

Photography courtesy of Paul Smith

Last days to see: This Friday is the final opportunity to see Paul Smith’s stamped object collection – an exhibition of sometimes funny, sometimes weird pieces that designer Paul Smith has been receiving frequently by mail from an unknown fan. Usually situated in Smith’s home, the selection of quirky objects is now shown in Europe for the first time since its debut in Hong Kong.

11th November

Paul Smith, Kelderstraat 2 & 3  – 2000 Antwerp

www.paulsmith.co.uk

The night out: DIG.IT.ALL

German DJ and multi-instrumentalist Christian Prommer takes to the decks at Wood this Friday for a night of live electronic music. Expect a more eclectic vibe, one which places experimentation right at the centre of its game.

11th November

Wood, Chemin de la Meute 1 Jachtkoppelweg – 1000 Brussels

www.thewood.be

The festival to go to: I love Techno

Paul Kalkbrenner, Boys Noize, Birdy Nam Nam, Cassius…once again the Belgian indoor festival I love Techno brings the crème de la crème of electronic music to town. Top of our wish list: Totally Extinct Enormous Dinosaur, Drop the Lime and playboy DJ Brodinski.

Flanders Expo, Maaltekouter 1, 9051 Ghent

www.ilovetechno.be

The concert to catch: Atmosphere

Having probably done more than Prince himself to put Minneapolis on the map, indie rap imprint Atmosphere has over the years built up a considerable fan base with its blend of hardcore emo-rap. Led by eloquent wordsmith Slug, the band have just released their latest album, The Family Sign for which they are currently touring Europe. With other label mates getting on the bus with them (Brother Ali, Dilated Peoples‘ Evidence and Ohio producer Blueprint), this is one sure to bring the backpackers out in force.

11th November

L’Ancienne Belgique, Boulevard Anspachlaan 110, 1000 Brussels

www.abconcerts.be

The shop to drop by: La Fabrika

La Fabrika, a design store offering 230 m² of carefully-curated contemporary furniture, lighting and accessories, opened its doors a year ago and now celebrates its first birthday with a special treat for its customers: a 10% reduction on the whole collection, including pieces by established designers as well as rising talents.

12th November, 11h00 – 18h30

La Fabrika, Rue A. Dansaertstraat 182 – 1000 Brussels

www.lafabrika.be

Photography Pauline Miko

Ever since Coco Chanel’s game-changing little black dress hit fashion boutiques’ shop floors, the staple has become a wardrobe must for self-respecting women – the kind of piece to defy any cyclical turns in the fashion sphere. With its purist aesthetic and understated luxury, this black heavy cotton satin dress from Belgian designer Sofie D’Hoore, a graduate of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, perfectly captures the little black dress’ philosophy, effortlessly combining elegance and minimalism to delighting effect. With clean lines, a modern look and an oversized collar adding a playful twist to the frock, this black dress is our clear favourite from Sofie’s current winter collection focusing on dresses inspired by the 60s . As Sofie D’Hoore herself puts it: “I want to dress women, instead of dressing them up.”

Sofie D’Hoore 100% cotton dress (325 €)

Available at Walter, Henri van Heurckstraat 3, 2000 Antwerp

www.sofiedhoore.be

Courtesy of Peter Ceursters

What was your inspiration behind the winter collection?

This collection was very much about me and the fabrics and colours I like to wear. The scarves were also about my feelings for a person I had become involved with, but our story had become too complex and difficult.

Was it all about love then?

Yes, it was.

Has the relationship ended?

Yes, it has.

How did you feel about this?

In a way, it was a liberation for me. Of course, you miss the person, but you just have to move on and stay positive.

You named the collection “And this one is for me”. Did you regain your sense of self after the break-up?

Yes, I did. In fact, that’s precisely what the collection dealt with.

What fabrics did you use?

When you are single, you no longer have someone to keep you warm. I used merino wool and chunkier knits, as well as a flannel check shirt. These are the kinds of clothes you would normally wear during the winter, but this time they ended up around your neck.

Why did you focus on scarves?

I’ve always liked the idea that you could make other things out of the garments you already own and view them from a different perspective. The idea of transformation really appeals to me. It was therefore logical to work on scarves as they are close to the body. It’s the kind of accessory I like to wear everyday. For this collection’s samples, I worked with one-off garments that I turned into scarves, but the actual production was handled elsewhere.

I’ve always liked the idea that you could make other things out of the garments you already own and view them from a different perspective.

Where are the scarves produced?

My production is currently in China. Manufacturing in Belgium is really expensive and people have budget limitations for such items. They’re not going to spend crazy amounts of money on a scarf. My pieces are complex as well, and ateliers can get scared when they see the samples. I guess there are too many operations involved. I still make all the samples myself though. That’s important for me and I enjoy the whole process, regardless of the amount of time it may take.

Do you actually go to China to supervise the production?

No, I don’t. I’ve got an agent who’s doing that for me. Ideally, I’d like to be able to make everything myself and would prefer to work with Belgian manufacturers.

Who are your stockists at the moment?

I sell to Louis in Antwerp, Waldraud in Zurich and Haleluja in Brussels.

Was there not a conflict between your position as a store manager and designing your own line?

Not at all. In fact, Marjan Eggers -who happens to be my boss- was always supportive of my work and accommodating as well.

When did you create your own brand?

I set it up two and a half years ago. I think it sort of happened. I suppose everyone dreams of having their own label, even though it was never a top priority for me. Other things in life matter much more.

Are you telling a story through accessories then?

Definitely. There’s a narrative thread that I use and it’s important that something emotional gets out of my pieces. I want people to respond to my collection in a subjective way, because the line feels very personal. For instance, my last summer collection is completely different in terms of feel and message. I added more fabrics, worked mostly with silks and developed some waistcoat shapes. The colours were brighter and generally more cheerful. I guess the winter collection had to do with breaking things down and starting from scratch. It was a step I had to go through in order to progress.

Is that the reason why your summer collection feels more hopeful?

Yes, of course. I got closure with the winter collection and the very last one was about looking forward to things and enjoying life. People have the tendency to complain all the time, but they lose touch of what is important in the end, like health, friendship and respect.

Would you say that fashion can be therapeutic then?

Maybe it can. I think you can only touch people with your work if you tell them stories that are genuine and come from your heart. They have to be able to relate to them. That’s what I try to do with my line anyway.

www.peter-ceursters.com

Photography Pauline Miko

Bleu de Chanel 100ml bottle (€71).

Available nationwide from Ici Paris XL.

chanel.com

The festival to catch: Sonic City

Courtesy of Mute Records

By inviting Melvins, Factory Floor, HTRK, Mark Ernestus, Legendary Pink Dots, Tannhäuser Sterben & das Tod, Standish/Carlyon, and Sightings, LA-based Liars – who were asked to curate this two-day festival in Courtrai/Kortrijk – live up to the sharp, eclectic and somewhat offbeat taste one would rightfully expect of them.

From 29th to 30th October

Sonic City @ De Kreun, Conservatoriumplein – 8500 Courtrai/Kortrijk

www.dekreun.be

The concert to go to: The Ex

Veterans of the Dutch punk scene, The Ex emerged at the height of the sub culture’s explosion in 1979 and survived its downfall. Going through several line-up changes during its three-decade career, the band’s sound evolved from anarcho-punk to new-wave, sometimes even incorporating elements of free jazz, afrobeat, blues and folk whilst never losing its relevance, edge or mythical energy on stage.

29th October

VK,  Rue de l’Ecole 76 Schoolstraat – 1080 Brussels

www.vkconcerts.be

The nights out: Bozar Electronic Weekend

Courtesy of Monkeytown Records

With Berlin’s Modeselektor headlining the bill, this weekend’s Electronic Weekend once again promises to bring sonic mayhem down on Bozar‘s labyrinth of underground rooms and corridors. Reinforcing an already solid international line-up (Siriusmo, Girl Unit and Rustie amongst others) with a finely-tuned selection of homegrown talent (Surfkill’s Ssaliva and Spank Me More Records’ Concert Debout), the two-nighter promises to deliver enough ear candy to keep you on your toes until the early hours of the morning.

From 28th October to 29th October

Bozar Centre for Fine Arts, Rue Ravensteinstraat 23 – 1000 Brussels

www.bozar.be

The walk to take: Parcours Modo

Courtesy of Modo

One of the quickest and safest way to get a good idea of what’s brewing in Brussels’ creative hotpot at the moment is to let yourself be guided through this weekend’s Parcours Modo, a fashion-focused, city-wide trail in which emerging and established fashion designers as well as the majority of downtown Brussels’ retail glitterati join forces to create a walk full of unexpected surprises. Top of our list this year is the exhibition ’Fashion Drawers’ at Papers. Another must-do on our list: MAPP, which is hosting the so-called Smile Book project. If you’re lucky, you might even get to be photographed in one of designer Marc-Philippe Coudeyre‘s new winter jackets with a vintage polaroid camera.

Starting point and information: The Rits Café, Rue A. Dansaertstraat 70 – 1000 Brussels

www.modobrussels.be

The exhibitions to go to: Dreamsuits and Precarious Interchange

Dreamsuits

Courtesy of MoMu

What do Elvis Presley, John Lennon and Johnny Cash have in common? All three music icons wore outfits by Ukrainian-born designer legend Nudie Cohn, a tailor who by revolutionising Country & Western fashion rose from designing g-strings for New York strippers to international stardom. In what is the first comprehensive exhibition of his creations in Europe, the show allows you to discover a vast selection of Cohn’s extravagant outfits and accessories, including the personal collection of Belgian entertainer Bobbejaan Schoepen.

From 28th October to 12th February 2012

ModeMuseum Province of Antwerp,  Nationalestraat 28 – 2000 Antwerp

www.momu.be

Precarious Interchange

Courtesy of Waxy Pith

Waxy Pith, a new platform for contemporary art, displays the works of artists from France, Norway, the US and Germany touching different topics and artforms ranging from photography to video installations or sculptures whilst all having one thing in common: A certain sense of precariousness.

From 28th October to 13th November

Waxy Pith, Rue de l’Arbre 4 Boomstraat – 1000 Brussels

www.waxypith.com

Photography courtesy of Sofie Claes

When did you create your label?

I started working on it at the beginning of October last year. My first showroom took place last March and I just got back from Paris where I presented the second collection.

You have studied in several countries before and have had a pretty unusual path. Can you tell me more about your experiences?

During secondary school, I took evening classes in sewing and pattern-drawing. The plan was to enter the Academy in Antwerp, but I had a strong feeling I needed to go to Paris first. I learnt French there and studied at Esmod for a year. The teachers encouraged me to do the full course, but it was too pricey for me. I started looking at places that could be of interest and decided to enrol at Amsterdam’s Fashion Institute.

What made you decide to go there?

The course offered a great balance between commercial thinking and creativity. We had management and branding classes, as well as courses on 3D design and designing pieces for shows. It was a good preparation for the future. In Antwerp, I have the feeling that students learn to develop their own creativity, but do not know so much about the business itself. You’re left to your own devices after school and have to learn how to start a business from scratch.

What happened after graduation?

I went to India, working for 3 and a half months on a special project where an atelier had to be created. It was a charity initiative, called «Satara», where we got to design a complete collection, using Indian fabrics. We taught 15 women how to sew the pieces there. That was a great experience for me.

Did you come back to Belgium after that?

I came back home, looking for work. The crisis could be felt and it look longer than expected to find opportunities. I was also looking for ways to set up my own brand, getting information and help wherever I could. I launched it 9 months after I got back.

Was it always clear for you that you would create your own label one day?

Yes, it was. In fact, it had been my goal since studying at AMFI. I remember having interviews in Belgium for commercial jobs where people told me I was actually too creative for their companies.

What are the advantages of living and designing in Belgium?

The best thing is proximity. You can go to the atelier often and check what people are doing. You avoid expensive travels costs. It makes the whole process much more personal and it’s nice getting to know the people who are dealing with your production.

Is it the human interaction that you enjoy?

Yes, definitely. The women working there are the same age as my mum, which creates a sense of closeness and familiarity. Having that kind of connection is important for me.

Does this have an impact on how your clothes are perceived by potential clients?

I think it does. The fact that my clothes are made in Belgium seems to be well-received, even though it might not be the most important thing. Price and quality are probably more relevant.

Are your clothes expensive?

Manufacturing in Belgium is expensive. That’s something I need to consider for the future. Do I want to keep everything here or will I have to look at other countries in Europe? I guess my prices are high for a young designer, but this is an aspect I’m going to work on.

Do you find that foreign buyers are more sensitive to the fact that your production is local?

Yes, they are. It’s not something Belgian buyers seem to value that much though. In Paris, I noticed how the Japanese loved this for instance. I guess it could be cultural.

What kind of woman do you have in mind when designing your clothes?

I called my line Wolf. because I was looking for something that could sum up the type of woman I like. She’s independent, smart and has a mysterious side. It’s the strength of the animal that appeals to me. It’s not about aggression at all, even though women have to be tough sometimes.

What is your reference behind the more tailored, structured pieces?

I am drawn towards military clothing and keep reworking it. I like the geometry and precision of uniforms.

Would you say your style is minimal then?

It’s funny, because I tend to start with more and end up with less. Any effect that is not essential does not have a reason to exist. I try to simplify things as much as I can.

Are there fabrics you refuse to work with?

I’m not into synthetics. I’d rather use wool, cashmere, cotton or pure silk. I want my clothes to be soft, comfortable and easy to wear. No polyester for me, I’m afraid.

Kiehl’s Creme de Corps (from 13 euros)

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Lombardenvest 80

2000 Antwerp

YMC Fairisle Knit Jumper (170 euros)

Available at Lowi, Rue de Flandre 124 Vlaamsesteenweg, 1000 Brussels

www.lowi.be

Photography Pauline Miko

The idea of concept stores as consumerist hotspots that have drastically re-shaped people’s shopping experiences by making fashion, lifestyle and art central to their retail mix is given something of a local relevance in the form of Israel-born Ran Yaniv and Russian-born Vanessa Vukovic’s soon-to-be-launched project, the cutely-named ‘Ménage à deux’.

After initially joining forces behind the decks as DJ duo ‘Ménage à deux’, the pair quickly became unseperable and decided to embark on an even bigger (ad)venture together. Since Vanessa had already made a name for herself as co-designer for Shampoo & Conditioner, she’ll be leading the way in terms of the boutique’s fashion offering, focusing on and creating her own line of clothing, whilst Ran will essentially be manning the business side of things. That being said, he’s far from being a fashion virgin, having in the past managed Brussels vintage staple Idiz Bogam. And, despite ‘Ménage à deux’ stocking many other labels and products, the boutique’s main focus remains Vanessa’s creations . “My line is very feminine and flatters the female body of all shapes and ages”, the La Cambre graduate says to describe her collection. Think dark shades and the odd playful detail or two (feathers, contrasting colours). What is more, each and everyone of her designs can be tailored in the shop’s own studio, ”because some women just do not fit into a standard 36 or 38″, continues Vanessa. A concept store that vividly captures the spirit of our times, then, and one which doesn’t loose its sense of reality. Lovely.

‘Ménage à deux’ opens shop on 13th October.

Rue de Flandre 120 Vlaamsesteenweg, 1000 Brussels

‘Ménage à deux’ is subsidised by the OpenSoon initiative of the Belgian government which aims to promote fresh and innovative retail start-ups that add a dash of independence and character to your neighbourhood’s shopping landscape.

www.opensoon.be

Photography courtesy of Eric Beauduin

What made you want to focus on bags?

I guess it was a combination of different factors. I had my own clothing line before and started designing shoes. I ended up freelancing at Delvaux for a while and realised I loved making bags. I’ve always been into sartorial details, such as pockets, finishings, buttons and fastenings. I guess my bag line grew organically.

What’s your educational background?

I studied at la Cambre and graduated from there. I was born in Rixensart and moved to Brussels, which was the logical thing to do.

When did you launch your own label?

I launched my brand in 2000 when I was in my 30s.

How old are you now?

I’m 42.

How do you feel has people’s behaviour changed towards sustainable designer brands?

People’s perceptions are quite different now. I guess sustainable fashion is not as “weird” as it used to be. First and foremost, I see myself as a craftsman. I like the idea of “slow fashion”, which is rather political in a way. I guess I’m a bit of a lefty boho-type. It’s about having a certain lifestyle, too.

What are the advantages of working in Belgium?

Having my atelier in Brussels gives me a sense of freedom and flexibility. If someone orders some styles now, I’ll be able to ship them before Christmas. I could forget about that if I had to work with foreign manufacturers. I have my own production here and wouldn’t want it any other way. It’s just faster, I guess, even though there are always challenges to deal with.

How do you source vintage materials?

I have suppliers I can buy from in France and Belgium. Recently, I noticed prices went up, because the demand for vintage leather goods has increased globally. The market is much more competitive now. For instance, Japanese companies often buy from Europe, as vintage clothes here have a history and certain cachet.

First and foremost, I see myself as a craftsman.

If you’re working on a large piece, how much time does it take?

It takes up to 10 hours for a big bag. When you deal with larger sizes, you can only make one piece a day, not more.

How do you reduce waste in your production?

That’s part of the fun. You have to be inventive. I use patchwork techniques to reduce it and try to use each skin as much as I can.

What is luxury for you?

Luxury has to do with quality, beauty and rarity. Then again, I don’t consider myself a luxury aficionado. I come from a working-class background where luxury was not an interest. I think craft defines my work. I’m much more into manipulating materials and traditional techniques than an industrially marketed concept of luxury.

Do the stores that buy your bags care about this?

Yes, they definitely do. I don’t see any reason why tradition and craft should ever go away. We can still count on them for centuries to come.

Who influenced you in fashion?

Someone like Martin Margiela really influenced me. When I studied at la Cambre in the early 90s, Belgian fashion was perceived internationally as cutting-edge and groundbreaking. Véronique Leroy‘s shows were a revelation for me, too.

Does that mean you learnt about fashion through Belgians?

Yes, I did. It was a great group to learn from actually.

Do you think being Belgian and working in fashion is a plus?

I guess people like giving an identity to the objects they buy and they seem to care more and more about the origin of their products. I make my bags here, so I guess that’s something they are sensitive to.

If someone offered to buy your company today or handle your production, what would you do?

I’d refuse. Offers have come in the past -some interesting, others not- but this is my baby, you know. I’m not going to give it away any time soon.

Nike Sky Force ’88 (from 85 euros)

Available from Oki-ni

What you need to do

• Log on to The Word Magazine’s Facebook fan page by clicking here
• ‘Share’ our Facebook fanpage on your wall by clicking the share icon at the bottom left of the magazine’s page:

• Once the ‘Share this Page’ pop-up window opens up, paste this message in the text box: “Belgium’s most-read counter culture magazine with a twist. Style, music, photography, culture and design seen from the ground up. And if you like their fanpage I might even win myself one of their goodie bags.” You should have this:

• Once that’s done, click the ‘Share Page’ icon and your post should appear on your wall shortly.
• Once it has, take a screen shot of the post on your wall, and email it to wewrite@thewordmagazine.be together with your full name, postal address and date of birth. Please title the email ‘I’ve shared your page’.

The first 10 readers to do so will each get a goodie bag sent to them. If, for any reason, one smart soul out there distinguished him or herself through his or her enthusiasm to promote our Facebook page, we’d probably find it within ourselves to prepare an extra goodie bag. As long as you’ve got a screen shot to back up your claim to Word-fame. Competition closes this Friday 30th September at 18h00.

Chanel’s ‘Les jeans de Chanel’ (25 euros for one)

Available exclusively at the Chanel Fashion Boutique, Chaussée de Waterloo 63 Waterloosteenweg – 1000 Brussels

www.chanel.com

His striking men’s collection – inspired by animals, car machinery and S&M – did not leave anyone indifferent. With their unruly long hair, body-conscious clothes and half-hidden faces, Henrard’s models looked vaguely threatening and androgynous, like lost creatures leaping out of a sci-fi drama. The pale-faced, 20-year-old graduate hails from the region of Liège / Luik, which is not exactly famous for its fashion stars “It’s logical going to Brussels or Antwerp if you want to get into this business”, explains Henrard. “Jean-Paul Lespagnard is from Liège, but he lives and works in Brussels. I did my internship at his atelier during my 1^st year and really got on with him.” Even though he hesitated between Antwerp and Brussels, Henrard seems pleased he went for La Cambre “I like the way people support each other throughout the course. I also really got to know the other students, because we are not that many in the end. Teachers may seem cold and difficult sometimes, but you soon find out they are kind and generous people. What I love the most about the teaching is the way it connects to art and its central relationship to fashion. We’re encouraged to do something innovative and qualitative each year.” Although he comes across as soft-spoken and slightly shy, Henrard’s not afraid of big statements. He also has a rather perverted taste, mixing high and low in bizarre ways. His pieces combined fur, PVC, furnishing materials and needlepoint, playing freely with historical and cultural references “I was looking at typical Belgian motifs and was inspired by medieval art. I wanted to mix handicraft techniques with something rougher and cheaper-looking. I guess one of the key ideas was to create some kind of hybrid between man, car and beast.” The needlepoint waistcoat – one of the collection’s standout pieces – took several weeks to make, with up to 12 people involved to get it finished on time “I guess I design in a very architectural way and would love to continue experimenting with this idea of machinery merging with bodies. It’s exciting and I’ve already imagined what my next collection would look like.” The fashion furies can hardly wait for his next step.

With thanks to Grégoire Pleynet for the behind the scenes footage.

Photographer Yana Foqué

Places, strange and quiet (2011) by Wim Wenders – Hatje Cantz

At times intriguing, at others downright hilarious, Wim Wenders’ photography captures the everyday absurdities he encounters on his many travels – everything from oversized cowboys sporting Wrangler denim skirts to windowless backyard sheds and deserted former submarine assembly plants. With characteristic wit, the celebrated filmmaker creates visual statements on non-descript places which draw meaning not from their subject matter but, rather, from Wenders’ watchful gaze, and the notes accompanying each photograph. Opposite a photograph depicting a Bavarian policeman looking onto Italian activists running amok through a field for example, the sentence reads: “The G8 in Germany…Protesters ran through the fields, Italian activists carrying a sign PACE. A Bavarian policeman turned to his colleague: “Look, these idiots don’t even know how to spell PEACE.””  It’s simple, self-explanatory and works wonders. Pure Wenders.

Available from Amazon

Behind the zines: Self-publishing culture (2011) – Gestalten

However limited their print run, the impact self-published fanzines have had on the growth of certain counter-cultures and musical movements make them the undeniable and ultimate voice of independent thinking. The precursor to blogs, what really distinguished these homemade, low budget boutique publications was their approach to art direction, graphic design and production. Antiquated print presses were preserved merely to achieve a particular finish, paper stocks mixed-and-matched to rainbow effect, 3D typefaces created out of pure ‘zine zeal and binding techniques so advanced even the Japanese couldn’t catch up. An exhaustive, well put together and, above all, accurate survey of the culture in itself, Behind the zines manages to succinctly capture the movement’s essence without reading like a how to guide.

Available from Amazon

In a lonely place (2011) by Gregory Crewdson – Hatje Cantz

Best known for his highly staged, film-like photography, Crewdson also has a more intimate and intuitive side to his work, one which somehow seems more improvised and less restrained. Although the celebrated photographer shot to prominence with his sometimes glacial series Beneath the Roses (2003-2008), Crewdson manages to counter his tendency towards the pre-determined with rather more personal series such as Sanctuary (2009), a black and white documentary which captures Fellini’s famed Cinecitta studios in Rome, or Fireflies (1996), which reflects the artist’s interest in nature. In each of the series though, Crewdson’s ability to contrast an overriding sense of sadness with an unquestionable and somewhat naïve beauty remains the unsettling element that makes of his visual aesthetic one of the most innovative in contemporary photography today.

Available from Amazon

From Polaroid to Impossible (2011) – Hatje Cantz

Along with the demise of the Polaroid Corporation came the realisation that its legendary Polaroid Collection housed in New York and Europe would need to be auctioned off to pay off angry creditors and administrators. Aghast, a movement made of artists, museums and photography lovers and led by the Polaroid-perfected artist Chuck Close came to life, mobilising itself to ensure preservation of the 16,000-strong collection which includes instant photography by the likes of Ansel Adams, Robert Mapplethorpe, Andy Warhol and Helmut Newton. The group succeeded in its quest to avoid a sale, and this book is the result of their perseverance.

Available from Amazon

Global Denim (2011) by Daniel Miller and Sophie Woodward – Berg Publisher

The dominance denim enjoys over other textiles in the fashion industry is unparalleled. It’s a natural monopoly of the global uniform, one which has rarely been investigated. From the streets of Mumbai and the back alleys of Mexico City to the urban townships of middle America and the rural villages of central Africa, nothing says effortless cool the way a pair of jeans does – be they boot cuts, slim fits or baggies. But what, exactly, makes them so ubiquitous? What is their anthropological meaning when taken in their local contexts? At times a heavy read that can make you feel like you’re back at college, Global Denim uses the Great Depression, Bollywood screenings and Rio de Janeiro’s funk balls to reach a set of conclusions explaining the unquestionable rise of denim as the global garment of the world.

Available from Amazon

Jeff Wall, The Crooked Path (2011) – Bozar Books and Ludion

The accompanying book to the Canadian photographer’s monumental exhibition of the same name currently on show at Brussels’ Bozar, The Crooked Path represents Wall’s attempt to make sense of his body of work in a very public manner by contextualising it, confronting it even, to the works of his contemporaries and icons. Using as starting point a simple picture of a landscape, Wall proceeds to historically reference his work – large-scale photography framed in light boxes for the most part – opting for total transparency as far as inspiration goes: he makes no secret, for example, of having taken inspiration from Delacroix’s La Mort de Sardanapale for The Destroyed Room, his 1978 depiction of a ransacked room. And that is the beauty of Wall’s work: conscious of its debt to the past, but keen to translate it for the future.

Available from Amazon

(first published in the blue album)

Needless to say, an essential pre-condition is a willingness to come out of the studio looking nothing like you did when you entered. You must also be available week commencing 8th August – on the Monday for the casting, and on the Friday for the shoot (in Brussels).

If you think you fit the script, please email a recent photograph of yourself to tinecl@gmail.com and we’ll be in touch with more details.

Photography Tine Claerhout

Follow Damien on Twitter for wordplays and jokes.

Photography Joke De Wilde

The first instalment in our series comes courtesy of Soumaya Dancemachine, a DJ and party promoter who constantly criss-crosses the Belgo-German border in her ever-lasting quest to put on some the best parties around. She’s best known as the founder of High Needs Low, the next edition of which takes place on 9th July at K-Nal.

Listen to Soumaya’s Soundcloud here.